Laos is a chameleon. Sit at an outdoor cafe in Vientiane and gorge yourself on French pastries. You could be in Paris with an Asian twist. Once renowned as a city of spies during the Cold War, Vientiane is a cosmopolitan riverside border town perched on the Mekong River, heavily influenced by its colonial days. Meanwhile, the once hippy enclave of Vang Vieng still offers the scary thrill of floating in rubber tubes down the Nam Song River on which it sits. Today, this town is known for its eco-adventures rather than drunken soirees. Vang Vieng is for hiking and rock climbing amidst staggering limestone hills, crawling through caves, or gawking at 16th and 17th-century monasteries. Then there is the northern town of Luang Prabang, where tradition, culture, and luxurious hotels sit in comfortable companionship. Each morning is greeted with the silent and sacred ceremony of Sai Bat or Tak Bat—morning alms—practiced by thousands of Buddhist monks all over Laos.
With its French colonial stains, Luang Prabang is a charismatic town to explore. Inhabited for centuries, it sits on the historical Silk Route, which gave the city enormous wealth and power. Known as Lane Xang (Kingdom of a Million Elephants), it became the center of Buddhism in the region. Once the royal capital of northern Laos, Luang Prabang sits on a peninsula where the muddy Mekong and the Nam Khan Rivers meet. The spectacular Phou Thao and Phou Nang mountains cradle this legendary and devout land.
As a UNESCO World Heritage Site, the streets are mesmerizing mosaics of the fusion of Lao traditional architecture and European colonial buildings from the 19th and 20th centuries. It's a hodgepodge of rustic timber affairs with traditional plaited bamboo panels, beautifully preserved colonial buildings with quaint balconies, and ornately gilded religious creations of stone. Richly decorated, the many pagodas of Luang Prabang are lovingly tended to by the young monks, who are taught restoration techniques by their elders.
Early morning markets are a test for keeping your breakfast down as much of the fresh produce is still wriggling and jumping and definitely not of the Western diet variety. Delicious coffee aromas infuse the air around quirky cafes that support the local hill tribes who had to turn from poppy growing to coffee beans. The local egg delivery man can be seen on a pushbike with tray upon tray of eggs lilting precariously on the back of his bike as he dodges the lazy stray dogs that don't move off the curb.
Not far from the town's bustling heart is the sacred enclave of the glittering stupa of Wat Chom Si, where you will be met with staggering views that can only be appreciated after you suffer the pain of climbing 300 stairs to the top. The tranquil valley is overshadowed by blue-hued mountains wearing a dense cloak of choking vegetation. Achingly beautiful small temples litter the hillsides, silent monks glide like ghosts along leafy trails, and wafts of woody incense perfume the gentle breezes. An ancient tale will have you believing that a mighty Naga—think part human and part serpent in Hindu and Buddhist beliefs—used to call this hill, Mount Phou Si, his home.
Outside the city boundaries, the pale turquoise waters of Kuang Si waterfall tumble over sculptured limestone pools waiting for you to take a dip. The Pak Ou Caves hide its treasure of Buddha statues, and masses of butterflies flit over jungle-ivy smothered riverbanks where spirit houses protect the land, and overloaded wooden longboats ply the murky river waters. Further afield, which requires a few nights, is the village of Nong Khiaw, where you can literally hike above the clouds.
Life moves slowly in Luang Prabang, which is reflected in the stunning accommodation on offer. From a luxurious stay in an indulgent tent amidst a forest to the pomp of a colonial-inspired suite, there are so many five-star hotels on offer that it makes you dizzy trying to decide where to put your head at night—a pool villa etched into valley slopes at the Rosewood Luang Prabang will have you simpering in delight after a hot and steamy walk around town, Amantaka with a decadent spa retreat rests quietly in a historic garden, and on the riverbanks of the Nam Khan River you will find the picture-perfect Apsara with its Indochine nuances.
Gail Palethorpe, a self proclaimed Australian gypsy, is a freelance writer, photographer and eternal traveller. Check out her website Gail Palethorpe Photography and her Shutterstock profile.
