A city that never sleeps, Hong Kong literally pulsates with life 24/7. Often compared with London or New York for its cosmopolitan air, the reality of Hong Kong is a contrast between its designer-cloaked surface of sparkling skyscrapers and the tatty shoes hanging in the gritty harbor, which isn't always 'fragrant' as the name 'Hong Kong' stands for. Hong Kong is a patchwork quilt of Chinese and Western cultures where old temples meet tall brightly lit buildings, and traditional Cantonese opera mixes with the ka-ching sounds of global finance. Numerous movies are based on Hong Kong's triads, which are obsessed with secrecy, money, and smuggling.
From the vibrant nightlife of Lan Kwai Fong (an expatriates' haunt) to early morning Tai Chi in Kowloon Park, Hong Kong overflows with people. In fact, it's about the fourth most densely populated place in the world, having about 7.5 million people, of which 90% are Chinese descendants. Make sure you get to one of the many markets, such as the Temple and Ladies Market, the Seafood Market, and the Temple Street Night Market, for the rowdy vibrancy and the colorful mix of cultures. You will experience some of the most amazing food that will tantalize and dance on your taste buds.
Hong Kong is a collection of over 200 islands, some unreachable and uninhabited. But, it is possible to island-hop around some of the more notable ones. Lantau Island is the perfect workout going up 268 stone steps to the Tian Tan Buddha—if your knees aren't up to this strenuous exercise, grab a cable car to the Ngong Ping Plateau, where the extraordinary Po Lin Monastery sits—originally simply known as 'The Big Hut.' Cheung Chau Island is iconic for its seafood market and munching on giant fishballs. Laid-back Lamma Island is for the meandering soul, with plenty of narrow alleyways stuffed with cafes, bookstores, seafood restaurants, and tiny temples. Peng Chau Island is an arty hub where dynamic graffiti art comes to life, and the incredible geological formations on Po Toi Island are worth ogling before diving into a seaweed dish perfect for vegans.
Getting around Hong Kong is half the fun and gives you an opportunity to mingle with the locals. Take a ride on one of the old trams, especially the ride from Central to Times Square in Causeway Bay: but remember to have the exact amount of your fare that you pay at the end of your journey, as there is no change given. The Star Ferry is a must-do—once during the day and once at night for the incredible views over Kowloon Island and the city's jungle of skyscrapers. If you want the ultimate view of Hong Kong, take a heli-tour, and you will get a bird' s-eye view that will make your jaw drop. To get a real feel for the city, charter a junk and pack a picnic lunch—or your hotel will. You will get to see islands, coves, and weather-worn coastlines where fishermen and pirates once lurked. You can even drop anchor in one of the secluded bays if you feel the need for a refreshing dip in the water.
The British footprint is visible everywhere in Hong Kong's chaotic Asian mix—most people speak English, there are pubs in the Soho area, and of course, decadent high tea is offered at swish international hotels. While swarming with the masses, there are shopping options galore. The gritty soul of Hong Kong can be found at the "Chungking Mansions" on the Kowloon Peninsula. You will have to brace yourself for the raw onslaught of humanity in these 17 stories of money changers, restaurants, and shops selling everything from second-hand mobile phones to used clothing. It is a high-rise souk constantly throbbing day and night. Visit the cool Soho area, where you will find bars, restaurants, and boutique shops. Make sure you have time to visit Sheung Wan, which is not far from Soho and is known for its down-to-earth atmosphere. This is where you will find the real "creatives" hanging out in many quirky original shops selling clothes and jewelry and bustling restaurants and cafes amidst the pungent stalls lining the street curbs of Dried Seafood Street.
With its crush of people, Hong Kong is a city where the queuing culture cannot be ignored. You will be queuing for transport, tickets, toilet facilities, coffee, restaurants, and everything else you can think of. Being constantly aware of and courteous to the people around you is an unwritten rule in Hong Kong.
Gail Palethorpe, a self proclaimed Australian gypsy, is a freelance writer, photographer and eternal traveller. Check out her website Gail Palethorpe Photography and her Shutterstock profile.
