Known as an imperial and eternal city, Meknes was not on my must-do list of towns—it was mere luck that I detoured after chatting to a fellow traveler who had just stayed there. Complete with a turban that had become a thin scarf around my neck, my driver asked a local urban policeman to walk with me to my riad, as it was midnight when I arrived. Nothing is more daunting for a single female than entering an old medina in the dark and navigating the sprawl of narrow alleys that never end—I have no sense of direction at the best of times and wondered if I would ever get out of the maze. Morning arrived with the call to prayer ringing out over Meknes' rooftops while the sun lifted its golden face. And I narrowly missed being squashed by a massive chandelier that fell from the riad's roof onto my breakfast table—occasionally, my timing can be perfect!
Meknes is a total step back in time and is not frequented by many tourists. Instagrammers aren't around in hordes, luxury hotels are few and far between, and there are no Michelin-star restaurants to drool over. Most choose to stay in Fes if they wish to see the stunning vision of the ruins of Volbulisi and visit the holy hillside town of Moulay Idriss, a pilgrim destination. These sights are within half an hour of Meknes, and they are not much longer from Fes. What you miss out on by staying in Fes is immersing yourself in the 'real' Morocco, not the glorified tourist version.
Its medina alleys are in constant shadows and hemmed in by crusty earth walls dotted with wooden doors of various pink hues, some with wrought iron grills. Dead-end alleys have you walking backward and forwards in an attempt to flee the labyrinth, and then surprising yourself at a sunny corner meeting of cobblestones where there is a buzz of chatter as djellabah-wearing vendors attempt to entice the passing parade into buying whatever they are offering—random sacks of fragrant spices to pretty pointed-toe Moroccan slippers. Forlorn cows' heads hang from shiny silver hooks in the butcher stalls, bakers busily flip flatbread over fires, and dubious street food is displayed, from slow-roasted lamb to pigeon or snails. Huddles of old men gossip in coffeehouses, slowly sipping mint tea. Wives are busy prodding and poking around stalls of colorful fresh vegetables, glaringly red chilis in baskets, succulent oranges in mounds, swollen dark olives in handcrafted dishes, and stacks of dried grains sitting in precarious mounds.
Relief can be found on the rooftops where cafes sit, serving rich and spicy coffee that reaches into your soul—it's spiced with ginger, cinnamon, cloves, and maybe cardamom. Add a mouthwatering buttery pastry flavored with orange blossom or pistachio, and you will think, yes, this is Morocco as the purplish hue of the Middle Atlas Mountains lay in the distance.
Located on the road between Fes and Rabat, Meknes was founded in the 11th Century as a military settlement by the Almohads—a Berber-Muslim dynasty. Under Sultan Moulay Ismail (1672-1727) of the Alawite dynasty, Meknes developed into a fortified city incorporating Islamic and European styles of the 17th Century—Spanish-Moorish. The ramparts of the city reach for the skies at 15 meters high with massive doorways. The incredible and imposing mammoth gate of arches and mosaic tiling, Bab Mansour, leads into what was the imperial city. While the Mausoleum of Sultan Moulay Ismail (17th Century) is awash in glorious fountains within stunning courtyards. The old city of Meknes is the perfect example of 'cobwork’ (earthen architecture) of Maghred sub-Saharan towns. Located outside the medina's walls are the Royal Granaries and stables that once upon a time housed 12,000 horses. Take the time to check out the Agdal Basin, a vast reservoir where the crumbling remnants of walls take you back in history to the age of the Sultans. The imperial city of Meknes is closeted within a countryside of orchards, vineyards, and olive groves looking over the Saiss Plains, where hot springs entice people to wallow in the therapeutic waters—Moulay Yacoub and Ain Salama.
With the passing of footsteps over centuries, Meknes is full of hidden surprises down claustrophobic warren-like alleys. Above all, despite its scruffiness, it's seductive for its Moroccan traditional vibes.
Gail Palethorpe, a self proclaimed Australian gypsy, is a freelance writer, photographer and eternal traveller. Check out her website Gail Palethorpe Photography and her Shutterstock profile.
