Cycling around the fortified Renaissance wall of the fairytale city of Lucca is a ritual. At any time of the day, pedals are being pushed by long skinny legs or short fat ones for 4.2km of 16th-century majesty that surrounds the city. If you're not up to two-wheeling around, plenty of people merely walk this extraordinary wall, letting their footsteps trace history's past. The towering rampart is the second longest in Europe, surrounding the old city where the famous opera composer of 'Madama Butterfly' and 'La Boheme,' Giacomo Puccini, was born.
Sitting on the Serchio River in Tuscany, Lucca is in the shadow of the Pisan Mountain Range and the Apuan Alps. From traces of a Ligurian settlement to becoming an Etruscan town, history would have us believe that Lucca became a Roman village in 180 BC, as is evidenced by the layout of the town—the amphitheater, central streets, a forum, and remains of walls. Once a hub for silk textile production, today Lucca is known for its arts and culture.
The backdrop for numerous Hollywood movies such as 'Portrait of a Lady' and 'The English Patient,' currently Lucca is the backdrop for a film starring Dustin Hoffman and Helen Hunt—a drama by Peter Greenaway, 'Lucca Mortis.' With a budget well into the millions, the movie is being filmed in about 25 locations: interiors and exteriors of private and public historical buildings around town. Tourists love Lucca for its proximity to Pisa and its iconic Leaning Tower—the famous tower has been crooked since being built in 1372; the hiking trails of vineyards and olive groves in the Garfagnana region that end in jagged mountains plunging into the ravine of the river; and, the thermal baths of the town of Terre di Pisa that's been used since Roman times for its therapeutic benefits. From noble families to famous writers, poets, and composers such as Strauss, Dumas, Shelley, and Byron have all wallowed in these waters.
Time moves differently in Lucca under the Tuscan sun—it’s slower, susceptible to whims and flights of fancy. Hours can be lost sitting in the morning glow at one of the many cafes amidst the circle of medieval houses leaning on each other in the shape of the amphitheater that was once the vicious and bloody battleground of gladiators—Piazza dell'Anfiteatro. Aimlessly meander the cobblestoned alleys of the old city soaked in yesteryear's magic, randomly finding corners where a church may hide, and stumble upon bustling piazzas with chattering locals—Piazza Napoleone. Antique shops with musty air, artisans forging knives for which Lucca is known, majestic squares, wine bars, and petit restaurants exuding the cooking aroma of garlic and herbs where you can leisurely indulge in a long lunch with perfect Tuscan wine.
Known as the "city of 100 Churches' Lucca fascinates and beguiles, giving wholeheartedly a taste of Tuscany. Enter heavenly bliss with a dish of Tordelli Lucchese—a meat dish of beef and pork stuffed in large yellow pasta pockets smothered in a meat ragu and spiced with nutmeg to give it a unique local flavor—it’s actually ‘tortelli’ but known as ‘tordelli' in Lucca. Slurp on a large bowl of Zuppa di Farro overflowing with beans and vegetables and devour the best Baccalà Fritters you will ever taste. Rich gamey sauces (wild boar and rabbit) flow over pasta and polenta dishes. Lucca's cuisine is derived from its peasant culture based around the seasons, simple and flavorsome, that can be found in family-run restaurants closeted amidst the labyrinth of cobblestone skinny streets.
It's easy to fill leisurely days lost in medieval times of the town. Climb to the top of the Clock Tower, where legend would have it that Lucida Mansi sold her soul to the devil so that she would remain forever young and beautiful. One hundred and thirty steps will have you gawking over the beautiful city from the Guinigi Tower, dating back to the 14th Century and where oak trees grow out of its top. Occasionally, street markets pop up in Piazza dell'Anfiteatro to browse, and head to Piazza Napoleone, where music festivals happen on the scale of Elton John, Neil Young, and more, in summer. The stunning 13th Century façade and dramatic posturing of the Archangel on the roof of the Church of San Michele will send shivers down your back. Take a casual stroll through Villa Torrigiani di Camigliano's manicured gardens that rival the Palace of Versailles. Or, head to the Orto Botanico—Lucca's botanical gardens, where flower blooms scent the air around century-old trees.
With piazzas overflowing with outdoor tables and umbrellas, bustling waiters, and street musicians, Lucca has a cinematic feel where dazzling sunshine warms the weathered cobblestones beneath one's feet.
Gail Palethorpe, a self proclaimed Australian gypsy, is a freelance writer, photographer and eternal traveller. Check out her website Gail Palethorpe Photography and her Shutterstock profile.
