The sassy prima donna of Bali's west coast, north of the tourist hordes of Kuta and south of Canggu, where you will find the world-famous surfing mecca of Echo Beach: Seminyak is the upmarket jewel in the shiny crown of Bali's luxurious beach resort area. Designer-set folk linger in their finery at chic rooftop bars overlooking the ocean when the sun hits the horizon in a fiery blaze. Impossibly bronzed bodies recline in Instagram-worthy poses or strut their stuff around glamorous swimming pools nudging the white sandy foreshore of one of the many beachfront resorts—Anantara Seminyak, the W Bali-Seminyak or The Seminyak Beachfront Resort & Spa. Dogs are walked along the beach by handlers, hawkers attempt to entice tourists into buying stuff they are lugging around under the hot sun, and surfers try to tame the tricky waves that no novice should attempt.
The Balinese people did it tough over the Covid lockdowns. I was there when Bali re-opened its borders in March 2022, and the once vibrant streets choking on buzzing motorbikes and cars dodging meandering tourists along wall-to-wall shopping and restaurant enclaves were almost empty with many boarded up. Only a sparse sprinkling of souls were walking these forlorn, almost ghostly roads at that time. I again visited Seminyak in September 2023, and the buzzy, laid-back feel of the area was back with a vengeance: too many cars on narrow roads, especially black SUV monsters, locals smiling, and tourists everywhere. The Bali slump is over, and there are a few new kids on the block and some old favorites that survived the economic bust brought on by Covid.
Kanvaz Village Resort Seminyak is one of my favorite hotels flourishing due to its location. A swish boutique option to bunkering down on the seaside, it's about a 5-minute walk away from the sand on the busy thoroughfare of Jl Petitenget Seminyak. The rooms are stylish and contemporary, with the best being the ones that give direct pool access—42 rooms and 4 suites—so you can dangle your feet in the pool whenever the fancy takes you. With 147 rooms and suites and all of the usual hoo-ha expected in a luxury hotel, Kanvaz Village Resort Seminyak is a sublime hideaway with a decadent patisserie reminiscent of French wickedness at its front entrance. And the high tea here should not be missed.
Seminyak’s hallowed spas present an opportunity for shameless self-indulgence. You can enter a world of tranquillity and pampering at one of the many spas in Seminyak or forego walking out the front door of your lush accommodation and chill out at your hotel’s in-house offering. Bodyworks Spa in the heart of Seminyak has had its doors open for almost 30 years. It is a world apart for the ultimate spoil yourself treatments. You will float away in delight when you step inside its Riad-inspired design of soft colors and tinkling water features. A tip to remember when you finish your desired massage is to wallow in a flower bath while sipping tea—it's heavenly.
Jl Petitenget is lined with eclectic bars and dining venues, where you will find the beach clubs of Ku de Ta and Potato Head. Going south out of the doors of Kanvaz Village Resort Seminyak, within moments, you will be at the discrete entrance to Merah Putih restaurant and bar—a fine dining venue dishing up exquisite Indonesian tastes with a contemporary twist in a breathtaking setting. The high and expansive roof is translucent, giving the dining area an outdoor vibe like a conservatory flush with old trees, plants, and misting cool water. It's totally unexpected, like a hidden fantasy garden. The food is fantastic, and the service is impeccable.
Walking south along Jl Petitenget will connect you with the other known eat-streets of Seminyak—Jl Batubelig, Jl Kayu Aya, and Jl Laksmana. Before hitting this intersection, you will come across the beautiful Petitenget Temple on the beachside with a roadway heading to the ocean. Down here is the iconic and local institution for restaurant-goers, La Lucciola. I've been eating here whenever I have been in Seminyak for over 30 years. It was a charming beachfront eatery. At that time, you could sit and gaze out at the blue ocean while a fleet of gardeners cut the grass with hand-held clippers in front of you, and topless sunbathing nymphs would primp and preen under an outdoor shower—totally a different era. Today, the building has been lovingly refined, keeping its original open-air 2-story layout under a thatch roof but adding a separate bar area to one side and a pretty water feature to the other. This is my go-to destination for chilling out over a long lunch with stunning views and food I would happily eat every day of the week as the menu is constantly changing. Designer boutiques should be avoided on the walk back to your hotel unless you are in the mood to spend eye-watering amounts of money or regret what you bought on a blurry-hazed whim.
Another venue for fabulous mouthfuls is Mama San Dining Room and Grill in Jl Kerobokan, a short taxi ride from Kanvaz Village Resort Seminyak. Sophisticated and elegant, it’s had a makeover in recent years taking over the space next door to its original humble beginnings. The dumplings literally make your taste buds quiver in excitement and apart from a tempting array of small nibble dishes, the main dishes such as a lamb curry or a crispy whole fish are presented like art on a plate.
The Seminyak area ticks all the boxes for those seeking an upmarket experience with a penchant for the finer things in life, especially when it comes to pandering to your desires.
Gail Palethorpe, a self proclaimed Australian gypsy, is a freelance writer, photographer and eternal traveller. Check out her website Gail Palethorpe Photography and her Shutterstock profile.
