Pronounced ‘Soo-wanna-poom,' Bangkok's Suvarnabhumi Airport has an unusual nickname, 'Swampy' because it was built in 2006 on a wetland, Cobra Swamp, 35km from the bustling heart of Bangkok. If you are planning on staying in Bangkok rather than transiting through, you may be better off flying into Bangkok's older and smaller airport, Don Mueang, the budget airline hub closer to the city. From creepy ghosts to the big names of South-East Asian airlines, Bangkok's Suvarnabhumi Airport is the landing place of national carriers such as Malaysia Airlines, Thai Airways, and Singapore Airlines.
Be careful when playing DIY travel agent and booking flights in and out of Bangkok that connecting flights are from the one airport. You will be hard-pushed to get from Suvarnabhumi to Don Mueang or vice versa due to the horrendous Bangkok traffic chaos if you are on limited transit time.
Believed to be haunted, Suvarnabhumi Airport's foundations were not only constructed on swamp land but on an ancient cemetery giving rise to the theory that the airport is inhabited by vengeful spirits. The sightings of ghostly specters and numerous fatal accidents during its building led to unrest among the construction workers, who reported hearing wailing, moaning, and eerie chanting while on-site. When the airport was opened, authorities held an exorcism ritual involving 99 Thai Buddhist monks who prayed and chanted for 9 weeks. Like all good ghost stories, this one has a central figure—after the exorcism, one of the baggage handlers, Poo Ming, claimed he was the deceased cemetery guardian. Monks quickly cleansed and blessed Poo, but his ghostly apparition using a walking stick roams the airport to this day. Not the only ghost to welcome traveling passengers, 'the pale woman' cradling a baby is another apparition ghosting the airport's vehicle lanes and blamed for many car accidents—it's said that she pops out in front of cars, frightening the drivers.
From the haunting sounds of classical Thai music to other-worldly footsteps, there have been many reports of mysterious sightings and sounds throughout the airport. Poltergeists, demons, and banshees are blamed for many accidents, from baggage truck collisions to planes losing control on the runway. There's even an abnormally high rate of suicides occurring in the terminal areas. Regular rituals and prayers are held to appease these devilish spirits, and offerings are left at the airport shrines.
Suvarnabhumi Airport is one of the largest in the world, with distances that make you cringe. Getting from the arrival gate to immigration sans toilets for those in desperate need is only the first taste of the lengths to walk. Retail therapy took precedence over human necessities in the arrival area. Signage is good, so there's little chance of getting lost going through the airport. You will need to have completed the Arrival/Departure card given to you on the plane before landing—don't rely on pens being handy to fill the form in once landed, and make sure you keep the Departure section in your passport for when you leave the country. Electric golf carts are available for those with trouble walking, but you must arrange this pre-flight with your airline.
Immigration queues are a nightmare with stressed, grimacing officers—be prepared to wait anywhere between half an hour to, say, 3 hours or longer. Check your country's status concerning visa requirements and allowable duty-free. Right behind immigration counters, the baggage terminals are just as clogged with hustling passengers. Once through into the Land of Smiles, you can grab a local SIM card from one of the network counters. Other facilities include luggage storage on the 2nd Floor, transport, and car hire offices. Head to the basement level if you wish to change money to the local currency or to catch the Airport Link train.
Suppose you are in transit and wish to have some shut-eye. In that case, the swish Novotel Suvarnabhumi Airport Hotel will give you luxury at a price; alternatively, you could curl up in a pod at Avagard Capsule Hotel. Within ten to fifteen minutes of the airport, there's a large selection of hotels that won't break the bank with a shuttle service between the hotel and the airport.
Departing from Suvarnabhumi Airport is the usual shuffle between checking in at the relevant airline counter to taking a long walk up to the mezzanine level for the security shake-down. Allow ample time as the queues, once again, can be rather long. Eating is probably the best pastime while waiting for your flight—there are plenty of places to stuff your face or have a beverage. However, shopaholics may be disappointed as duty-free shopping is known for not being cheap.
For all relevant information, check out the airport’s website.
Gail Palethorpe, a self proclaimed Australian gypsy, is a freelance writer, photographer and eternal traveller. Check out her website Gail Palethorpe Photography and her Shutterstock profile.
